‍Inês is a bubble of energy and smiles. She’s got opinions that she won’t be scared to tell you, but they come with so much genuine curiosity that the conversation might just turn into the most interesting debate you’ve had in a while. 

Per her company policy, Inês is allowed to work remotely four months a year. She introduces herself as a part-time nomad, very happy to balance her suitcase, her apartment and her two dogs! 

She lives most of the year in Porto, in Portugal, where she’s from. Coming to Korea was such a dream for her, that she expected disappointment. Instead, Seoul became her home away from home.

Why did you want to come to Korea so badly?

I feel so embarrassed when I say this, but… K-dramas got me to Korea. My mom was one of those people who started watching more content on streaming platforms during the pandemic. She recommended Crash Landing on You, which is the love story between a South Korean woman and a military officer from the North. I remember vividly being in front of the first episode and thinking: ‘Oh my god, it’s so dramatic’ (laughs). I felt secondhand embarrassment and wondered if I could continue.

We already know you went past the first impression (laughs).

It was my mother’s recommendation (laughs). I gave it another try, of course. I watched episode two, and then three, and before I knew it I was hooked! There’s just something about the atmosphere in K-Dramas that’s unique. I can’t find it anywhere else. With every new drama I watched, I wondered: is it just this one? Are storylines always so exaggerated? Do they drink their banana milk the same in real life? Does a girl treat her boyfriend with so much respect because he’s only one or two years older? I wanted to find all of this out by myself. 

Now that you’ve been in Korea, is life here like in K-dramas? 

More than I expected, to be honest. I thought a lot of things were exaggerated, like the way people talk. It’s a more theatrical style than what we’re used to in Europe. But now that I’m here, I see that this is exactly how people speak. Dramas reflect how many Koreans perceive life 

What do you mean by that? 

It’s a bit hard to explain. I think in Korea, it’s socially acceptable not to grow up in some ways. A lot of the ads in the subway are about animation movies. The messenger app, Kakao, has so many cute stickers and emojis, and everyone, regardless of age, uses them. Everything is cute! It’s normal to see a guy in a military uniform, with a teddy bear key ring on his backpack. It’s the opposite of the European mindset where as an adult, you’re not supposed to be or be into ‘cute’.

So, in Europe, you think ‘cute’ is a phase of your life that you have to grow out of?

Yeah, exactly. In Korea, however, it feels like you’re allowed to keep that side of yourself. You can be a thirty-year-old couple walking down the street holding a gigantic plushie won at a claw machine. You can hang out with friends in photo booths after work. I could never see guys doing this in Portugal. It has connotations to it, so they wouldn’t want to. It’s a weird paradox. Korea is such a conservative society, but on these things, they feel more modern. I think that’s cool. 

You can work remotely for four months a year. Why did you choose to stay two months in Korea? 

I think that if I stayed less, I wouldn’t really experience the place properly or be able to build lasting relationships. I’m also very attached to my family and my friends back home and I think being away longer would be difficult. 

So you’re happy that you’re traveling part-time? 

I couldn’t do this all year long. I want to cultivate my bonds. I find that it takes time and effort, especially if people are apart. I often wonder, as a digital nomad always looking for new places, how do you keep those bonds? Maybe some people can accept passing-by connections, but for me, I think it would be painful. I’m also still trying to figure out how to balance this lifestyle with my boyfriend because he can’t travel like me. How do we make it work?  

There’s definitely no manual for this. Cultivating relationships is one of the trickiest parts of being a full-time digital nomad, especially if you do it for a long time. Everyone deals with it in different ways: by traveling part-time, by going to family and friends for important events, by meeting a group of digital nomad friends all over the world… 

I’m already planning to meet some friends I made in Korea this Spring, in Vietnam. I’m also planning to come back to Korea next Autumn, for sure. I’d like to make a tradition of going to the Busan International Film Festival (BIFF). It was an amazing experience: for a week, you can watch movies from everywhere with English subtitles. There are so many guest visits with directors, actors, and screenwriters - especially Korean ones.  

Did you go to BIFF alone? 

No, I went with friends staying at the Hoppin House coliving. 

Did you stay in Colivings before? 

No, Hoppin House was my first. I found it while searching on Google and something about it drew me in. It might have been ‘House’. I felt like it could be a home away from home. To be honest, I was a bit anxious about what I would find. It’s funny because before coming here, I read your blog interview with Megan about finding a community (laughs). I wondered if it would be the same for me, whether I would connect with people there.

And did you? Connect, I mean.

Oh yes. My expectations were completely fulfilled. I'd read about 'for me, travel is the people,' but I never really understood it until this trip. It has transformed me as a person. I love the people I live with. If I had stayed at an Airbnb, I would have felt so lonely. I’m not a party person, and a lot of meetups happen in bars, at night… It was so special to be able to bond with the other Colivers during the day, over breakfast, over lunch. I want to come back to Korea, and I want to come back to Hoppin House. Although in a way I’m scared that when I come back it won’t be the same - it won’t be the exact same people.

Apart from the people, why do you think Hoppin made you feel at home? 

The neighborhood where it’s located is amazing. I haven’t visited all the neighborhoods in Seoul (laughs), but it’s my favorite. I love walking through the Gyeongui Line Forest Park, watching the ajummas (older women) sitting on the bench, talking to each other. I really feel a connection, though I can’t quite explain it.  

How would you recommend to enjoy Seoul? 

First, by spending at least a month in the city. Before coming, when I did my research online, a lot of people said they were disappointed because Seoul was mostly about shopping and there wasn’t much to see. But I think it’s the opposite. Seoul is about living here. You go to a cafe and spend hours there. You walk around because everywhere is safe. It’s something you’ll miss out on if you spend only a little time here. As Europeans, our countries are old: when you visit, you see the palaces, cathedrals, and so on. Korea has a lot of history, but it’s also a country that has modernized so much, and so quickly. 

What about being a vegetarian in the city? Did it frustrate you? Seoul is sometimes considered a difficult destination for special dietary needs. 

I searched about being vegetarian in Korea before coming. I read ‘Oh, it will be super hard to be vegetarian in Seoul and to remain vegetarian there’. Everywhere, it said the country is not vegetarian-friendly at all. But after being here for two months, I don’t think it’s impossible. Yes, you need to prepare: you’ll have to save places on Naver Maps ahead of time. You can’t just go to random restaurants and expect a great experience. The restaurants I’ve been to are very good, and I’ve never felt hungry. It’s much better than I thought. I think it makes you value food more because it’s not everywhere.

What are your tips?

Kimchi is not vegetarian! (laughs) Once you know that, there are plenty of other options to explore. At the grocery store, you can grab tofu for protein, and it’s super cheap. Fruits and vegetables are expensive, but you can get them cheaper at the market close to Hoppin House, Mangwon market. I’d recommend going there often. I loved the vegan chicken at Camouflage, in Itaewon, the ragu bolognese at Darcenciel, in Mangwon, and the vegan lasagna at Chez Valerie. 

You’ve traveled so much. 50 countries or so, right? Why do you think Korea’s such a revelation for you?

Actually, Korea is my 50th! I have visited so many countries by traveling through Europe, working as a consultant and meeting clients wherever they were, going on holiday… I’ve enjoyed everywhere I’ve been, of course (laughs), otherwise, I wouldn’t have traveled so much. And yet, there’s something special about Seoul. It’s hard to put into words, but it already feels like home.

Inês’ recommendations

🥰 A thing to see

The drama Lovely Runner (with Byeon Woo-seok, love of my life). I think it’s a great introduction to Korean culture, K-pop, and fan culture - with great acting and a storyline that makes you feel good! 

🌱 A thing to eat

Camouflage is a vegan Chinese American restaurant in Itaewon. Their orange vegan chicken is to die for. It’s food that’s hard to find, so I thought it was really cool (and very good) that it exists. 

 📖 A thing to read

The Waiting by Keum Suk Gendry-Kim is a graphic novel. It’s based on the real family story of the author and tells the life of sisters separated by the border during the Korean War. I love the light tone of the narration even though the topic is so complicated.